Sunday, December 5, 2010

Ruffino Chianti Classico Reserva Ducale 2006

Some people crave Jimmy Dean breakfast products, Big Macs and watch little cars going 'round and 'round really fast on a track.

I crave the Uffizi Museum, Botticelli's The Birth of Venus, statues by Raphael and Michelangelo's David.

Although it's not economically feasible to fly to Florence (unless this blog really takes off), I travel to Tuscany through the power of lasagna and Chianti.

Tuscany is one of the most aesthetically pleasing wine-producing regions of the world. Rolling hillsides and villas interspersed with decorative gardens, Renaissance sculpture, and timeless architecture alongside the sprawling centuries-old vineyards of Tuscan wines.

In Tuscany (Toscana), Chianti is the most famous of their production. Although Chianti has been traditionally produced with 100% Sangiovese grapes, Italian winemakers will sometimes use other varietals. Italian regulations stipulate that for a wine to be classified as a Chianti, it must have at least 80% Sangiovese grapes.

Chianti Classico is a region of Tuscany, and includes the region where 18th Century Chianti was strictly produced (according to an edict by Cosimo III de Medici, who specified this region as the official Chianti-producing region). The Ruffino Chianti Classico is specifically crafted from the Ruffina region found within the Chianti Classico region.

The cool breezes of the nearby Arno River affect the concentration of the Sangiovese grapes here in Ruffina. Chiantis from cooler climates tend to have higher acidity, and some of the fruit is nuanced and more subtle than in the warmer regions of Southern Italy and even Southern Tuscany.

The Ruffino Chianti Classico Reserva Ducale 2006 is a prime example of Chianti Classico produced in the Northeastern region of Tuscany. The wine is medium-body, and medium-high in acidity. The bouquet is subtle, but obvious berry, of which I could detect cherry as well as currant. Although some Chiantis offer a floral, even rosy bouquet, the Ruffino offered no such aroma. The oak was subtle and mostly noticeable at the finish, which was lasting.

The color is a ruby red, darker in the center with a slightly more brilliant hue on the rim. The flavor really kicks into gear with something spicy (such as the spiced Italian sausages added to the lasagna).

Ruffino wines enjoy a good reputation, and their product is quality.  The '06 varietal was cellar-aged for two years before being offered at market.

The Ruffino Chianti Classico Reserva Ducale 2006 is worth the $20 price tag, as it is as Chianti should be - fruity, subtle, medium-bodied and great with a delicious Tuscan meal.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

A Leap Ahead: Stag's Leap 2006 Napa Valley Merlot

By Claudia Evans
Many a Merlot has been consumed and enjoyed at Chez Evans - its luscious mouth-feel, delicious plum tones and toasty finish are often what we crave with a juicy t-bone or angus hamburger.

As much as we love Merlot, we can truly say, we've never fully tasted or appreciated the Merlot grape, until Stag's Leap came into our lives.

Like a newborn baby, he was carried gently into the fold of my husband's arm one evening.

"I know you're making beef pot pie tonight and thought you might like to give this a whirl." he said.

My eyes perked up, and I licked my lips in anticipation. I recently read about how this winery caused an international sensation in the wine industry back in 1976, and helped put California on the map in terms of competing against Old World wines.

I set the table in great eagerness, and got out the large Merlot glasses (also called Bordeaux glasses), so that I could fully appreciate the aroma of this bold, deep red wine.

As I put the finishing touches on the beef pie, I opened the bottle and could smell the rich plum toasty aroma right away.

My husband peeked in on dinner, and commented on the aroma as well. "Wow, I hope that wine is as good as it smells!" he cheered.

And it was.

The color is a deep, ruby red that was so dark we could not see our fingers behind the glass.

The aroma is lush, with bursting up-front, concentrated fruit flavors you enjoy in a well-crafted California red. Stag's Leap grapes are grown in the Napa Valley, where dry volcanic ash minerals, as well as cobble, gravel and a deeper layer of sand make the vines a little on the thirsty side (and are more concentrated and full-flavored as a result).

"I love the balance," Steve says, "and the mouth-feel is rich, plush and velvety smooth."

Folks, many wines are good, enjoyable companions to a tasty meal.

And a fraction, a mere fraction of those wines are memorable - they stand apart and far above the everyday hustle and bustle of the busy supermarket and wine store aisles.

They are the Michelangelo's, the Da Vinci's, the Rafael's of the wine world.

And Stag's Leap deserves to be shelved alongside those we call the "Elite Wines" (receiving a Wine Spectator award rating of 90 and above; this particular bottle received a 93.).

The Stag's Leap Merlot, 2006 Napa Valley has ruined us for other Merlots.

At $40 the bottle, we can't afford to drink it every day, but we will gladly forgo a bottle or two in order to have this delicious bottle instead.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright © by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Lobster with the Parkers Estate Sauvignon Blanc '07

By Steve and Claudia Evans

There's something about a crisp Sauvignon Blanc that pulls the flavor out of great seafood. Perhaps it's the grapefruit-like acidity that counterbalances the sweetness of broiled lobster tail in lemon butter, which we enjoyed tonight with a 2007 Parkers Estate, a fine example of Sonoma County winemaking.

The pale straw color of this aromatic varietal belies the surprisingly rich flavors of pear and melon that evolve into tangy citrus on the lingering finish. Steve detects the scent of fresh-cut grass, saying the aroma is like being on a golf course after a light spring rain.

Claudia says this Sauvignon Blanc is fruitier than other examples of the varietal she has tried, but is not as toasty as she prefers, nor does it offer the aroma or flavor of oak aging. "It is nicely balanced," she says.

At $19 the bottle, this is a good wine for its price. Parkers Estate Sauvignon Blanc adds something special with the fruity complexity playing off the tang of grapefruit, but in the not-quite $20 range, we would expect no less. The '07 is good but not a great value compared to many of the white wines we often sample in this price bracket.

This blanc was delicious with seafood and the melted French brie on baguette that we devoured as an appetizer before the lobster. Afterward, we're thinking many good California and Washington State white wines are available in the $10 range with Wine Spectator ratings equal or superior to bottles such as the Parkers Estate, which cost nearly twice as much. Still, this may be like comparing the ride in a BMW to that of a Porsche Cabriolet. Both will get you where you're going, but one does it with a bit more panache. We're not sure that paying twice as much doubles the value or is worth the difference in taste, but the Parkers Estate was still a fine complement to our broiled crustaceans dipped in melted butter.

A Wine for All Seasons Copyright © 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Uncorking the Frei Brothers' '07 Merlot

By Claudia and Steve Evans

Tonight's blog grog falls in the under $20 class, though we would happily pay more for the same experience. The Frei Brothers put up a Merlot in 2007 that satisfies on every level three years later as we discovered this evening upon pulling the cork. This 120-year-old winery in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley is noted for producing some of the finest Merlot grapes in the United States. Their reputation is deserved.

Velvety smooth, with a plush mouth feel, we immediately noticed the distinctive aroma of dark berries in this Merlot, with notes of black cherry and a hint of vanilla on the front end. This is a nicely balanced wine, with the tannins adding some complexity to the tart taste of red fruit. It's no wonder Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast gave this value wine an 86 point raiting.

The Frei Brothers leave comparably priced wines sitting in the vineyard. Truth is, people who prefer the typically more nuanced flavors of Pinot Noir might be surprised by this ridiculously tasty Merlot as a fine alternative to their usual fare. Giving the wine a swirl in the glass really opens the aroma of this heady Merlot. It's delicious, has a lasting, toasty finish and is well worth the $18 price at the local grocer.

We sampled this '07 Merlot with two thick New York Strips, salted and peppered and slung across the grill until medium-rare on a cold Saturday night in late fall. Ghirardelli dark chocolates for dessert provided a delightfully sweet counterbalance to the wine, which blossomed and evolved on the tongue, revealing new layers of fruit with each bite of chocolate.

Like Kismet, destiny, the inexorable pull of fate, Merlot and Cacao chocolate were meant to be. So we let it be. If there is anything more tantalizing to the taste buds than a complex red wine enjoyed with dark chocolate, then we'd like to know.
A Wine for All Seasons copyright © 2010 by Steve and Claudia Evans. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

A Toasty Claret from Williamsburg Winery

By Claudia and Steve Evans
Williamsburg Winery, about an hour up the road from us coastal Virginians, put up a Claret five years ago, including 12 months spent in French oak. We are so glad they did. Without the toastiness of the oak, this Claret wouldn't be worth the wait.

This blend of 63 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 37 percent Cabernet Franc offers aromatic nuances of red fruit, but the French oak sells the bottle. Without that oak finish this wine would be on par with the vineyard's Two Schilling Red, which sells for about half the price. The obvious care, affection and time commitment invested in this Claret gives it an edge over other Virginia blends. There's no hint of pepper or heat that we've come to expect from a full-on Cabernet Sauvignon. Cutting the blend with the lighter Cab Franc grape mellows the wine, but at some sacrifice of flavor. That said, we are die-hard Cabernet Sauvignon fans who enjoy the heavy reds. Your taste buds may warm to this lighter libation.

As always, caveat emptor when it comes to price. Williamsburg Winery on its website sells the 2005 Claret for $12 the bottle at this writing, but it goes for $16 at the Virginia Beach grocery stores we frequent.

Claudia enjoys her glass, but says for $16 she'd probably buy a different blend that has more complexity and finish, such as the comparably priced 2006 Castell del Remei Gotim Bru, a Spanish blend of four grapes that we will review next.

"As a visitor to the Williamsburg Winery, someone who has partaken of several of their varietals, the winery is a very pleasant romp in a tourist area," Claudia says. "Of all the wines I've enjoyed there, the Governor's White ($8 per bottle) is by far the best value. This 2005 Claret is twice the price, and doesn't have a lot going for it, aside from the toasty Oak finish."

Steve enjoys the subtle interplay of the two grapes in this Claret, but agrees that Williamsburg Winery, like virtually all other vineyards in Virginia, puts up at least two and sometimes three or four respectable offerings that nonetheless are outmatched by Californian, Chilean, Argentinian and French bottles that sell for half the price.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) by Claudia & Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Near Wild Heaven: 337 Cabernet Sauvignon (2008)

By Steve and Claudia Evans

This Cabernet Sauvignon satisfies so completely, you may want to crawl inside the glass and marinate. Perfect with fillet Mignon, which we prepared with brandy and shallots in a French style, à la the Barefoot Contessa.

A rich berry flavor with hints of vanilla and mocha, and a lasting finish. An incredible berry-oak flavor lingers on the palate a full minute after swallowing, which tells us this is a high quality wine for its price (about $15). Although it's a Lodi Valley, CA, Cabernet, the vines were imported from a prestigious Bordeaux vineyard, so we enjoy the best of both worlds -- a French grape with the spiciness that comes from that Lodi soil, about 70 miles northeast of San Francisco. Visit the 337 winery.

The talented vintners at 337 recommend this Cabernet with hearty cuts of beef and wild game. "Suitable for a Viking feast," the label declares. But of course. Steve wonders what Vikings serve at their feasts. Roasted reindeer? Leg of mutton falling off the bone? He sets aside such irrelevance and pours another glass, savoring the full flavor of this very berry Cabernet. "Yum," he says. "Dark cherry and a smoky taste, with black pepper heat at the finish."

"I would buy this again in a heartbeat," Claudia says, raising her glass. "It's just good quality, not flashy, and holds its own against any Cabernet at twice the price. This is not a ho-hum wine."

We tasted hints of dark cherry and black currant, with a little pepper at the end. It is not an herbaceous Cabernet, meaning it doesn't have an earthy or grassy taste. Some Cabernets carry a whiff of mushrooms, but not the 337. This wine is full-bodied  but not nearly so dry as Cabernets we've enjoyed before. The mouth feel is almost as plush as a Merlot. It's also delightfully aromatic when opened and allowed to breathe awhile. We popped a stopper in half a bottle of the 337 and enjoyed the two remaining glasses a couple of days later, when it tasted even better.

We'll be stocking up; this 337 promises to age nicely.

Claudia's thoughts evidently wander to the classics as she recites, "One sip of this will bathe the drooping spirits in delight beyond the bliss of dreams. Be wise and taste. ~ John Milton."

"I love you," Steve declares, finishing the glass and reaching for the light.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Friday, October 29, 2010

Nasty in a Bottle: Red Mountain Laurel

By Steve and Claudia Evans
Somewhere along the Blue Ridge Parkway in the mountains of Virginia stands a vineyard with a noble mission. Chateau Morrisette advertises that an undisclosed portion of its wine sales will be donated to help treat dogs with kidney disease. As it turns out, the company's Red Mountain Laurel tastes like it may have been filtered through a dog's kidneys. Billed as a sweet, red table wine, the Red Mountain Laurel smells like Vaseline and tastes like Robitussin mixed with a melted cherry Popsicle. This is not hyperbole.

"I didn't realize that Johnson & Johnson was a vintner," says Claudia, warming to her subject as she pours the glass down the kitchen sink. "I had to use two teaspoons of Palmolive dishwashing liquid just to get the smell out of this glass. The label says, 'for the love of dogs,' but if they had any love for their customers they would discontinue this wine."

Claudia pulls the cork on a bottle of Syrah and pours a glass, she says, to get rid of the taste of the Red Mountain Laurel. I dare to try another sip in the interest of journalistic fairness. Maybe it isn't as bad as I thought.

Nope. Waste of time. It really is as nasty as Claudia says, with a stench like burning rubber, as though a teenager peeled out of the driveway in a rusted Chevy and filled the air with acrid smoke.

"Maybe it will clean the drain pipes," Claudia says, upending the bottle over the sink. The unnaturally bright red wine looks like fruit punch as it blub, blub, blubs down the drain, filling the kitchen with stink.

"That was the worst bottle of wine I ever conceived of tasting," my wife says. I raise an eyebrow, less out of surprise over a disappointing wine than the uncharacteristic vitriol that sweet Claudia brings to the table this evening. Claudia typically goes out of her way to avoid harsh criticism. Not tonight.

"Ugh!" she says. "That petroleum jelly smell won't go away."

Here's the vintner's own appraisal, as published on the Chateau Morissette website:

"This is a distinctive dessert wine made from a blend of native American grape varieties. It exhibits flavors of fresh grapes and cherries that are complemented by a sweet, smooth finish. A nice accompaniment for chocolate desserts, delicious poured over pound cake, or served as an aperitif."

One more taste, I think. Up to the lips, over the tongue. I cringe and make a face. Nasty wine. Chocolate and pound cake would be wasted on this vinegar. That fortified grape wine with the screw-off top -- the stuff that winos score downtown for $3.99 in nickels and dimes -- could not possibly be worse than Chateau Morrisette's red dessert wine. Nowhere on the label will you find the name of a varietal, the alcohol content or any other distinguishing factor beyond the company's philanthropic interest in dogs. Just don't give the poor brutes any of this wine. Red Mountain Laurel might euthanize the heartiest of our canine friends. We did not consume enough of it to gauge the impact on humans.

Could this just be a bad bottle? We don't think so. Red Mountain Laurel is on sale all over town at deep discounts, suggesting stores cannot get rid of the stuff at any price, although this wine would still be overpriced if they gave it away by the case. Drinking cough syrup could be no worse.

Manischewitz tastes like Veuve Cliquot compared to the antifreeze bottled under the Red Mountain Laurel label. Oy. El Shaddai. Spare us bad wine. Amen.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Steve and Claudia Evans. All rights reserved.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Quaffing the Panilonco: a Fine Chilean Blend

By Claudia and Steve Evans
The Panilonco Merlot-Malbec blend (60/40) from the Colchagua Valley in Chile tastes great in the under $10 class. Fruity, but not sweet, with a slight taste of oak in the finish. A little bit spicy, with nice balance, the Panilonco also offers genuine value. Great with steak, we enjoyed a bottle with grilled ribeyes and steamed asparagus. The good people at Vinedos Errazuriz Ovalle vineyard outside Santiago clearly know what they're doing when it comes to blending Merlot and Malbec on the side of a mountain. We're thinking of flying down to the Andes and helping them solve the mystery inside a few more bottles of this mighty fine wine. 
 
Chile bottles some of the most economical and delicious wines in this price range. While the country does not have the expanses of land devoted to grapes as in Northern California and France, Chile enjoys a terrific climate for viticulture and produces some amazing wine, of which this 2009 Panilonco blend is a prime example.
 
For $5, you can enjoy an intriguing blend of varietals that complements red meats and enhances the dining experience in ways that put other wines in this class to shame.  You'll be as proud to uncork a bottle of Panilonco at a dinner party, just as you would (or should) be ashamed to sling Sutter Home on your guests. Happily, both bottles cost about the same so the choice is clear.
 
We expect this wine to claim more shelf space from Papio, Pinot Evil, Robert Mondavi and other budget-priced bottles in this class. Watch for Panilonco in the wine section of your grocer, or run down to Trader Joe's if you can't wait. Look for the lion on the label.
 
A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Artisan Winery's Palette Reserve Paints an Off-Color Cabernet

By Steve and Claudia Evans

This 2007 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon is a competent specimen of the popular varietal, but at $12 the bottle it cannot compare to superior and comparably priced competitors, such as the 2007 Chateau St. Michelle ($14), or even the '08 Rex Goliath Cabernet Sauvigon ($6), taking up shelf space at most chain grocers.

"I think I was fooled by the attractive colors and labeling, which suggests something boutique," Claudia says.  "Actually it's cookie-cutter Cabernet. Drinkable, but not worth $13. I wouldn't pour it down the sink, but I wouldn't buy it again, either, unless the price dropped below, say, $7."

Steve winced at the medicinal first taste, but concedes the Palette Reserve delivers a smoother finish, bordering on bland. Arid and tart, like unripened fruit, the wine distracted from the flavor of our grilled New York Strips with Roquefort butter, asparagus and potatoes.

"Disappointing," Steve says, finishing his glass with no enthusiasm. He looks glum. "If it was ever going to peak, the '07 ought to be hitting those high notes right about now. Not this one. I might add a cup of Palette Reserve to beef stew before I'd refill this glass."

He fills it up anyway, thinks twice, then sets down the glass and walks over to his desk.

"You gonna write this one up or shall I?" he asks. "I'm pouring the rest of this bottle in the fondue pot and throwing in some chocolate after it."

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

A Royal Red: Prince Michel's Cabernet Sauvignon

By Claudia and Steve Evans
Prince Michel vineyards, a Virginia winery located 35 miles north of Charlottesville in the heart of the Commonwealth's wine-growing region, harvests and bottles a superb Cabernet Sauvignon, as Steve and I discovered this evening.

Rich, bold and fruity with hints of chocolate, coffee, cedar (surprisingly) and vanilla, this excellent red is precisely what a Cabernet Sauvignon should be. Aged for more than 12 months in French oak, this wine pairs perfectly with red meats and pasta dishes. We served it with roasted tomatoes and mushroom spaghetti and a simple tossed salad of arugula and garden veggies.

Prince Michel's Cabernet Sauvignon is a true delight, and an outstanding bargain at $14.99. The wine can be found in select supermarkets throughout Virginia and Maryland, and is also available for purchase on the winery's website.

This particular vintage happens to be an award winner, snagging both the Taster's Guild Gold and Silver medals for consumer judging and best international wine. The grapes are harvested in the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains between Charlottesville and Culpeper. Corks out!

Copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

A Date with 7 Daughters

By Claudia and Steve Evans
This California blend tastes like John Coltrane sounds: there's a lot going on and it flows effortlessly all over the place. Great artists can do that - they make the obviously complex seem ridiculously easy. 

If it sounds like we've already enjoyed too much of this heady red, that's only because 7 Daughters is a difficult wine to pin down. The tart fruit opens the eyes on first taste, blooming into the full flavor of black cherries and plums. "Spicy," Claudia says. "Fruity start with a nice peppery finish."

Merlot (51 percent) is the largest concentration in this blend of seven varietals, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (16 percent). Smaller concentrations of Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Syrah, Alicante Bouchet and Carignane give Seven Daughters its complexity and fruity boldness.

Seven Daughters red is nicely paired with meats of any type, and would be especially tasty with Beef Wellington or London broil. At $14 the bottle, it is an affordable choice and makes for interesting dinner conversation as one attempts to pin down the different grape varietals.

We're confident the complexity of 7 Daughters stems from these two little sisters of French origin, whose presence elevates this wine from table Merlot to a truly memorable experience.

A Wine for All Seasons (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Williamsburg Governor's White: A Chilled Delight

By Steve and Claudia Evans
Here's the best white wine under $10 that Claudia has tasted. "Extremely versatile," she says, "this can be paired with a light chicken salad for lunch or a seafood dinner. It's reasonably priced and can be enjoyed year-round."

The 2009 Governor's White would be especially delightful at parties and festive celebrations, as this unique blend of Virginia grapes contains hints of Sauvignon blanc and Muscato. Slightly sweet, extremely fruity and tangy at the finish. "I taste apricots and pears, and would love to pair this with a fruit salad for a beach picnic," says Claudia. (I'll hold her to that promise.)

This is the best selling wine at Wiliamsburg Winery, which is the largest winery in Virginia. At a suggested $8 the bottle (but you can find better deals at wine stores), take a chance and stock up on a few bottles of this delicious wine. The 2008 is even better, with a stronger hint of the oak aging, which is proof positive that this blend improves with time. 

It's more complex than other wines found in this price range. The Governor's White has more going on than your average $8 Riesling or Sauvignon blanc. It's sweet, but also dry. "Nicely balanced," says Steve. "And it has a nice color to it, with the slightest hue of peach."

This is not a wine you can pin down and label, which is why it goes well with so many dishes.

We enjoyed the Governor's White with provencal chicken, mashed herbed potatoes with butter and asparagus.

Our weekend itinerary takes us west to Williamsburg Winery for a tasting. We'll be back with a full report on the fall harvest, sampled wines and plenty of photos.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Steve and Claudia Evans. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Luscious L'Authentique

By Claudia and Steve Evans

Photo Credit: Trader Joe's
Red table wine L'Authentique is produced in Beziers, a small Mediterranean town in Southern France, which, according to the Travel Channel, has strong influences of Catalan.  The history of Beziers is ripe with Roman aqueducts, centuries old cathedrals and chateaus.  Beziers is located within the Languedoc region, the largest grape growing region in the world. Popular Languedoc varietals include the Grenache as well as the Ciragnan grape.

A bottle of L'Authentique, a blended red cultivated in this prestigious Southern region of France may not be the most complex French red wine we've ever tasted, but it is a reliable and balanced choice. At $4.99 the bottle, the L'Authentique is a stupendously good value -- you can expect to pay more than twice as much for any other red from the Languedoc region.

L'Authentique is sweet, fruity and smooth. It  pairs nicely with red meats, pizza and pastas. We served it with a homemade pizza topped with spinach leaves, sundried tomatoes and goat cheese. Steve says it's the best red wine under $5 that he ever tasted, which may be damning with faint praise. We still recommend this wine, which you can sample for yourself at Trader Joe's.

Learn more about the Languedoc Region.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Steve and Claudia Evans. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Stocking Up on Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Indian Wells Merlot

By Claudia and Steve Evans

The 2007 Indian Wells Reserve Merlot is an unforgettable delight and the perfect accompaniment to a traditional steak and potato dinner.  This particular merlot is an award-winner - garnering an 89-point rating from Wine Spectator magazine in April 2010. 

The vintner, Chateau Ste. Michelle, is a Columbia Valley winery in Washington State with more than 3,500 acres of historic vineyards. Their website, http://www.ste-michelle.com/, claims the merlot is "rich and supple" with a "lively finish." We couldn't agree more.

We paired this smooth, woodsy merlot with thick-cut grilled ribeye, fresh potatoes, and steamed asparagus with hollandaise sauce. The wine was a superb and outstanding partner to such a meal, and an unbeatable value for $15 the bottle.

Stock up on this while you can - it promises to mature nicely and is precisely the type of wine that fine, young cellars are made of.

A Wine for All Seasons (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Guzzling the 2008 Gewurztraminer

By Claudia and Steve Evans

J.W. Morris is a Sonoma Valley vintner that bills this 2008 white wine as "an exciting, easy drinking wine, more so than most any other white wine type." It's also allegedly "heady" with an "aromatic scent."

All awkward phrasing aside, J.W. enjoys hyperbole.

This crisp and sweet wine is light on the palate, but lacking complexity. Perhaps it might best be served chilled for a picnic or with a Cobb salad. We say it might almost be sweet enough to stand in for a dessert wine, perhaps with a pear tart. Our bottle helped wash down a turkey tarragon dinner and fueled a conversation about closed-mindedness in modern culture.

So it is with an open mind that we suggest the J.W. Morris Gewurztraminer as a sweet refreshment that offers good value at $3.99 the bottle. Like a good pop song, the Gewurztraminer won't remind anyone of Mozart -- or even a great white wine -- but it's catchy and pleasant; you can indulge without guilt, or without spending a lot of money.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.

Sipping the Il Valore Marchese DePetri, Sangiovese 2009 Giovane

By Steve & Claudia Evans

Welcome to A Wine for All Seasons, which is a modest attempt by Claudia and Steve to discover good wine at an exceptional price. Here, we share our pairings of wines from the world over with home-cooked meals to explore the nuances of the grape while indulging our love of great food. Our goal is to highlight the pleasure of wine without all the pretension that is readily available elsewhere on the Internet.

We commence our journey with a bottle of Il Valore Marchese DePetri, Sangiovese 2009 Giovane. The Sangiovese is a pleasantly aromatic grape from the Puglia region of Southern Italy (known as the Heel of the Boot). This is a young, fruity red wine with a supple finish.

The Puglia region has traditionally been a growth area for mass-produced, cheap red grapes, but the region's rich soil conditions and climate have provoked investors throughout Northern Italy and as far as America to start taking Puglia seriously. Puglia is now considered to have real potential for commercially successful, quality wines. 

The '09 Sangiovese opens with a rich burst of fruit, wet and young. It makes a fine accompaniment to red meats, pasta and especially pizza. "Mild, spicy finish," Claudia says, "but thin, because it's young." Still, this 2009 Il Valore offers extraordinary value at under $5 the bottle. The alcohol content, at 12.5 percent, spurred a pleasant giggle as we reached the bottom of the bottle.

We enjoyed this wine with a delicious early-autumn dish of penne rigate with fresh tomatoes & basil, cubed sweet potatoes and prosciutto.

For an everyday Italian meal, the '09 Il Valore is a fine choice, sensibly priced. The Il Valore would transform a mundane pizza supper into something special.

A Wine for All Seasons (c) 2010 by Steve Evans and Claudia Evans. All rights reserved.