By Steve and Claudia Evans
This 2007 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon is a competent specimen of the popular varietal, but at $12 the bottle it cannot compare to superior and comparably priced competitors, such as the 2007 Chateau St. Michelle ($14), or even the '08 Rex Goliath Cabernet Sauvigon ($6), taking up shelf space at most chain grocers.
"I think I was fooled by the attractive colors and labeling, which suggests something boutique," Claudia says. "Actually it's cookie-cutter Cabernet. Drinkable, but not worth $13. I wouldn't pour it down the sink, but I wouldn't buy it again, either, unless the price dropped below, say, $7."
Steve winced at the medicinal first taste, but concedes the Palette Reserve delivers a smoother finish, bordering on bland. Arid and tart, like unripened fruit, the wine distracted from the flavor of our grilled New York Strips with Roquefort butter, asparagus and potatoes.
"Disappointing," Steve says, finishing his glass with no enthusiasm. He looks glum. "If it was ever going to peak, the '07 ought to be hitting those high notes right about now. Not this one. I might add a cup of Palette Reserve to beef stew before I'd refill this glass."
He fills it up anyway, thinks twice, then sets down the glass and walks over to his desk.
"You gonna write this one up or shall I?" he asks. "I'm pouring the rest of this bottle in the fondue pot and throwing in some chocolate after it."
A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.
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