A Toasty Claret from Williamsburg Winery

By Claudia and Steve Evans
Williamsburg Winery, about an hour up the road from us coastal Virginians, put up a Claret five years ago, including 12 months spent in French oak. We are so glad they did. Without the toastiness of the oak, this Claret wouldn't be worth the wait.

This blend of 63 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 37 percent Cabernet Franc offers aromatic nuances of red fruit, but the French oak sells the bottle. Without that oak finish this wine would be on par with the vineyard's Two Schilling Red, which sells for about half the price. The obvious care, affection and time commitment invested in this Claret gives it an edge over other Virginia blends. There's no hint of pepper or heat that we've come to expect from a full-on Cabernet Sauvignon. Cutting the blend with the lighter Cab Franc grape mellows the wine, but at some sacrifice of flavor. That said, we are die-hard Cabernet Sauvignon fans who enjoy the heavy reds. Your taste buds may warm to this lighter libation.

As always, caveat emptor when it comes to price. Williamsburg Winery on its website sells the 2005 Claret for $12 the bottle at this writing, but it goes for $16 at the Virginia Beach grocery stores we frequent.

Claudia enjoys her glass, but says for $16 she'd probably buy a different blend that has more complexity and finish, such as the comparably priced 2006 Castell del Remei Gotim Bru, a Spanish blend of four grapes that we will review next.

"As a visitor to the Williamsburg Winery, someone who has partaken of several of their varietals, the winery is a very pleasant romp in a tourist area," Claudia says. "Of all the wines I've enjoyed there, the Governor's White ($8 per bottle) is by far the best value. This 2005 Claret is twice the price, and doesn't have a lot going for it, aside from the toasty Oak finish."

Steve enjoys the subtle interplay of the two grapes in this Claret, but agrees that Williamsburg Winery, like virtually all other vineyards in Virginia, puts up at least two and sometimes three or four respectable offerings that nonetheless are outmatched by Californian, Chilean, Argentinian and French bottles that sell for half the price.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) by Claudia & Steve Evans. All rights reserved.