Near Wild Heaven: 337 Cabernet Sauvignon (2008)

By Steve and Claudia Evans

This Cabernet Sauvignon satisfies so completely, you may want to crawl inside the glass and marinate. Perfect with fillet Mignon, which we prepared with brandy and shallots in a French style, à la the Barefoot Contessa.

A rich berry flavor with hints of vanilla and mocha, and a lasting finish. An incredible berry-oak flavor lingers on the palate a full minute after swallowing, which tells us this is a high quality wine for its price (about $15). Although it's a Lodi Valley, CA, Cabernet, the vines were imported from a prestigious Bordeaux vineyard, so we enjoy the best of both worlds -- a French grape with the spiciness that comes from that Lodi soil, about 70 miles northeast of San Francisco. Visit the 337 winery.

The talented vintners at 337 recommend this Cabernet with hearty cuts of beef and wild game. "Suitable for a Viking feast," the label declares. But of course. Steve wonders what Vikings serve at their feasts. Roasted reindeer? Leg of mutton falling off the bone? He sets aside such irrelevance and pours another glass, savoring the full flavor of this very berry Cabernet. "Yum," he says. "Dark cherry and a smoky taste, with black pepper heat at the finish."

"I would buy this again in a heartbeat," Claudia says, raising her glass. "It's just good quality, not flashy, and holds its own against any Cabernet at twice the price. This is not a ho-hum wine."

We tasted hints of dark cherry and black currant, with a little pepper at the end. It is not an herbaceous Cabernet, meaning it doesn't have an earthy or grassy taste. Some Cabernets carry a whiff of mushrooms, but not the 337. This wine is full-bodied  but not nearly so dry as Cabernets we've enjoyed before. The mouth feel is almost as plush as a Merlot. It's also delightfully aromatic when opened and allowed to breathe awhile. We popped a stopper in half a bottle of the 337 and enjoyed the two remaining glasses a couple of days later, when it tasted even better.

We'll be stocking up; this 337 promises to age nicely.

Claudia's thoughts evidently wander to the classics as she recites, "One sip of this will bathe the drooping spirits in delight beyond the bliss of dreams. Be wise and taste. ~ John Milton."

"I love you," Steve declares, finishing the glass and reaching for the light.

A Wine for All Seasons copyright (c) 2010 by Claudia and Steve Evans. All rights reserved.